Replace the bottom weather seal
The rubber U-seal at the base stops drafts, water, rodents, and dust. Worn seals are obvious — swap in 20 minutes.
What you'll learn
- How to measure your door — standard widths are 8, 9, 10, 16, and 18 feet
- T-style vs. U-style retainer — knowing which one you have matters for the new seal
- How to slide the old seal out without damaging the aluminum retainer
- Why a little dish soap on the rails makes the new seal slide right in
Step by step
- Measure the door width and buy a bottom seal that matches — get 6" extra.
- Raise the door about halfway. Look under the bottom panel to find the retainer track.
- Grab one end of the old seal and pull it straight out of the retainer track. It should slide out.
- Wipe the retainer channel clean of dirt and old rubber residue.
- Spray a little soapy water along the retainer rails.
- Feed one end of the new seal in, keep it straight, and pull it through across the full width.
- Trim the excess with a utility knife so it sits flush with each edge.
If the retainer itself is bent or corroded (common on coastal homes), the seal will never sit right. Retainer replacement is $120–$240 installed — worth it for a proper seal.
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Keep learning.
Lubricate your garage door (the right way)
Five minutes twice a year. Cuts noise, extends spring life, and keeps rollers from seizing.
Test your garage door safety sensors (monthly)
The photo-eye sensors six inches off the ground are the only thing stopping the door from closing on a kid, pet, or car.
Reset your garage door opener after a power blip
After an SDG&E blip or new battery, the opener often needs a quick reset before the remote works again.